Written by HNIN THET HAY MANN, 22 February 2025
An intern at Glide Japan in 2025, Mann joined us on a journey through Minami Beppu, capturing her thoughts and experiences along the way.
Kannawa - a wonderland where one can truly sink into the charms of a traditional Japanese hot spring town. With its abundance of hot springs, historical ambience and - most palpable of all - its steam-billowing streetscape, Kannawa is indeed a place where hot spring steam seeps into every corner of life.
Unstoppable natural hot spring steam continuously rises through the ground, the surrounding hot spring machinery and bathhouses, as though the town itself were breathing. A wander through this ever-steaming land offers a dreamlike, almost otherworldly feel, in which time seems to slow down, healing one both mentally and physically. Here in Kannawa, the warmth of the earth exists not just in the baths, but in the air, the streets, and even the food.
A Land Kept Warm by the Earth
Kannawa sits on one of Beppu’s most active geothermal zones. Steam machines release bursts of hot air into the streets, making the townscape feel like a fantasy world, almost as if stepping into a dream. Beneath the streets, hot spring water is cleverly piped through the ground, keeping the roads warm all year round.
This natural 'underfloor heating' is loved by the small residents of the district. On chilly days, stray cats curl up along the pavement and soak in the heat.
Wandering Through Steam and Poetry
Beyond the onsen, Kannawa has its own quiet charm. A small, hidden path leads you to a secret garden - a place where you'll find Japanese poetry written on stones and wooden boards.
Walking through the town feels a little like stepping into an old story: steam rising in soft waves, wooden bathhouses with noren curtains swaying in the breeze, and the faint sound of water flowing somewhere nearby.
Onsen in Every Shape and Form
Kannawa is a place where onsen culture extends far beyond bathing. From free foot-baths to potable hot spring water; from well-known hot spring resorts to tiny neighbourhood bathhouses, every corner in Kannawa offers a chance to experience its healing waters. Thousands of secret little bathhouses are scattered throughout the district, and for just one or two hundred yen, visitors are welcome to try one for themselves.
Bathing aside, the steam itself is also used in the local cuisine. Mushi-ryouri (steam-cooked food) is Kannawa's speciality, using natural geothermal heat to prepare everything from eggs and vegetables to seafood and puddings.
Hyotan Onsen’s Natural Cooling System
Hot spring water here bubbles up at nearly 100°C - far too hot for bathing in, so it has to be cooled down first.
Instead of artificial cooling methods, Hyotan Onsen was the first to introduce a bamboo-based cooling system, guiding the water through bamboo pipes and wooden structures, letting it cool naturally whilst retaining all the rich minerals that make onsen water so soothing.
Finding Peace in the Steam
Kannawa is more than just an onsen town; it moves to the quiet rhythm of steam, warmth and tradition, imbued with a magic that makes time seem to move just a little more slowly. The warmth lingers here - not just in the waters, but in the air, the streets, and in the moments spent simply being present in this wonderland.

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